Perhaps because it is one of the smaller capitals in Europe, we didn’t know anyone and couldn’t find anyone who knew someone in Bratislava. However, through aggressively approaching people in the streets we had plunged into the young art scene of this laid-back city three days later. On our first evening, we could not be bothered to check in a too expensive hostel (although getting a shower for free) and preferred to stroll through the streets – maybe someone would provide some square meters of their floor for our sleeping bags? We first ran into a gallery with a group of art students exhibiting their jewellery; then, we got to know some musicians studying at the Bratislava conservatory; painters were to follow the next day. The building of the Bratislava conservatory that we visited is a modern and well-equipped building. Surprise, surprise: It has been co-financed by the EU. Certainly not only because of conservatory buildings, Slovaks are considered one of the most EU-enthusiast peoples around; Still, it was the Slovakian parliament that blocked the bailout of Greece in November 2011. How come?
After a night we spent in a hostel after all, our efforts to meet Slovaks turn out to be successful when two of the music students we met the day before suggest to take a morning walk. Vladimira and Thomas take us to the Castle (“Hrad”), which reigns over Bratislava as well as the Danube (again…). Bratislava is only 40 kilometres away from Vienna, and the view provided by the Hrad towards Austrian lands makes you realise how close the Iron Curtain once was. For decades, the West was a incredibly near, yet unreachable. Understandably, when Slovakia came into existence out of Czecheslovakia in the early 90s, the future was Europe from the start. When we meet former minister of foreign affairs Pavol Demes, he stresses that very point: Slovakians are pro-European by default. Slovakia was built “from scratch” in the 90s and “membership perspective was the driving force behind nation-building”. In recent years, according to surveys, the approval of the EU has always been high at around 70%. Today, none of the parties represented in parliament are in any way EU-sceptic. Since Slovaks did not hinge on any preexisting political structures – “where there never was a president, a presidential residence had to be constructed” – they are less troubled with giving competences away to Brussels. In that sense, “Slovaks are more Europhiles than other European countries like Hungary, the Czech republic or Poland”, Demes says.
Through our new friends from the conservatory, we get the chance to go cultural in the afternoon: A graduate student gives her closing concert before she will try to conquer the world’s music halls. Listening to Mozart and Mendelsson-Bartholdy is our chance to take a break from reflecting on Europe back and forth. At this moment, we are assured that the EU is actually of some use, since we would not have such an entertaining afternoon (and, of course, many of the talented young Slovaks would not unfold their talents in such an appropriate surrounding). The music students Thomas, Vladimira and the people of their age do not remember the times when looking beyond the Danube was like a glance at paradise for Slovakians. For them, integration into the EU is still the right thing – but not unquestioned. As Maria, one of our interviewees on the street puts it: “Being in the EU is not as good as we dreamt. In particular, it is another question if it’s good to be in the euro zone.” Many people think either that it was too early to introduce the Euro in 2009 or they believe the Euro to have induced inflationary tendencies (even if that is not necessarily the case). Among our musician friends, the perception that prices are too high and salaries are too low holds. Vladimira, a violinist, says she would earn about 400-500€ per month if she worked for the Bratislava Philharmony. The appartment rent in the centre of Bratislava is about the same. As everywhere else in Southern and Eastern Europe where we’ve been so far, the young see their opportunities abroad.
A similar story leads us to understand why Slovakia has made the continent tremble when the bailout of Greece was on the agenda. Slovakia went through very harmful reforms in the 90s to be fit for the EU. Everyone speaks about solidarity with the Greek people. But what about is solidarity towards Slovakians that have undergone all the harsh measure earlier? In 2010, the pension level in Greece was four times the level of Slovakia. Kind of difficult to explain why the country should pay for the Greek debt crisis.
In the evening, Pavol Demes takes us to an inauguration of the new courtyard in the Bratislava Philharmony. As it happened to us in Greece, we suddenly find ourselves in the diplomatic elite of Bratislava. The presence of foreigners living in Bratislava gives us an interesting outside perspective on the Slovakian rebelliousness of late 2011. Speaking to the US ambassador leads to some enlightening and amusing moments. Who has ever been concerned about Slovakia in the United States of America? “2011 was the only time that I was called by the White House since I have worked here!”, the ambassador says. The first time in their very short state history, Slovaks have raised their voice so loud as to have it sound over the Atlantic even. The little rebellion against EU uniformity points at a crucial asymmetry in European solidarity talk. The Eastern European countries are by no means the richest. Yet through some discipline they evaded the Greek fate. Fair enough that Slovakia was so brave to point at that fact.
